Central Europe with My Daughter: 11 Days to Remember

Sharon and Caitlin HigginsWhen your daughter, spending her junior fall semester studying abroad in London, asks you to travel with her during fall break instead of going away with her friends, you jump at the opportunity to spend one-on-one time with your baby. Right? Right!

I just returned from an 11-day adventure through Central Europe, and I loved every minute of it. What made this trip especially interesting was that my daughter chose our destinations. Rather than the usual European stops like Rome, Barcelona, or Paris, she picked Kraków, Vienna, Budapest, and a quick stop in Bratislava. We filled our days with cooking classes, local food tours, museums, palaces, castles, opera, and chamber music concerts, discovering the history and culture that make each city unique.

Our first stop, however, was a sobering one. My daughter was determined to visit Auschwitz, about an hour and a half from Kraków, so we arranged an early-morning tour of Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau. We were picked up at 6 a.m. on a chilly, foggy morning, with visibility so poor that the extra fog lights on the cars ahead of us were essential.

By the time we arrived, most of the fog had lifted, leaving a light haze in the autumn morning air. After passing through security, we walked silently along a pathway as the names of victims were read over a loudspeaker. The sound alone was chilling. As we approached the infamous gate bearing the words Arbeit macht frei (“Work sets you free”), I was struck by the contrast between the quiet morning and the unimaginable suffering that had taken place there. That moment stayed with me throughout the visit. The historical facts, personal belongings, and sheer scale of the tragedy were overwhelming. While words can only convey so much, visiting Auschwitz brings the history into a deeply personal perspective and serves as a sobering reminder of the lives lost and the importance of remembering them.Auschwitz

The rest of our trip was filled with so many wonderful experiences that these are just a few of the highlights. In Kraków, we explored the impressive Wieliczka Salt Mine, with its remarkable underground chambers and sculptures carved from salt, took a nighttime ghost tour through the city’s historic streets, and learned to make traditional pierogies.

In Vienna, we admired Gustav Klimt’s iconic The Kiss at the Belvedere Palace, learned to prepare Wiener schnitzel and the delicious Austrian dessert Kaiserschmarrn, enjoyed a beautiful chamber music concert featuring Haydn, Mozart, and Beethoven, and visited the magnificent Lipizzaner stallions. We also enjoyed the city’s grand palaces and rich musical traditions.

Wieliczka Salt MineOur journey included a stop in Bratislava to explore its castle, dramatically positioned above the Danube. Its history reflects the many civilizations that have passed through this part of Europe.

In Budapest, we discovered the charm and history of Buda and Pest, learned to cook traditional Hungarian chicken paprikash, and sampled pálinka, a potent fruit brandy popular in Hungary. We also attended the Hungarian State Opera to see Háry János, a wonderful way to experience another part of the country’s cultural traditions. One evening, we took a nighttime cruise along the Danube, where seeing the magnificent Hungarian Parliament Building illuminated against the night sky was unforgettable. The river, architecture, and lights made for a spectacular view of the city.

And that’s just a sampling of our 11 days! Between the food, history, art, music, architecture, and unexpected discoveries, there was always something new to experience.

Looking back, this trip was about so much more than the places we visited. It was about sharing new experiences, trying new foods, discovering different cultures, and making memories with my daughter during this special chapter of her college years. Eleven days flew by, but these are moments I’ll treasure long after we’ve unpacked our suitcases.

The view from the Danube Cruise.