Home Cooking R.I.P.
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It’s been a tough month for cooks. First I learned that Sheila Lukins, the beloved creator of The Silver Palate had died. When I saw the tombstone ad in the New York Times, tears sprung to my eyes and I was as surprised by my own reaction as I was to learn that she had passed away. Let’s face it – I never met the woman, but she was ever-present in my kitchen since the early days of my marriage. The Silver Palate was the cook’s bible for my generation and replaced The Joy of Cooking on the shelves of young brides. All the good occasions in my life were celebrated with Sheila---for my son’s first birthday I baked not one, but three “Decadent Chocolate Cakes” from the first edition of The Silver Palate. What happened and why would a busy new Mom with a full time job bake three cakes? The cake had to be perfect as this was the crown prince’s first big day and what could be more momentous than the first birthday of the first grandchild born into our extended families on both sides.
It was a chocolate bundt cake, and the first one split in two when I tried to get it out of the pan. The second one looked more promising in the oven but I was foiled again when trying to remove it from the pan in one piece. My husband decided to help and before I could object he grabbed a hammer and started banging on the bottom of the bundt pan as I stood by horrified. That led to a cake in pieces, a marital tiff and a third try at decadence. This time I discovered the wonders of Pam and voila we had a luscious, delectable cake.
What other good-times were celebrated with my friends from The Silver Palate? All Jewish holidays called for either the famous Chicken Marbella or the Apricot and Currant Chicken from the second edition. Thanksgiving meant sweet potato puree with crème fraiche … Lukins never hesitated to enrich her recipes with cream or butter. We purchased a special fish mold for the salmon mousse and served it surrounded by dill at elegant dinner parties. The lemon chicken was another family favorite and the three Silver Palate volumes are still on my shelf, splattered with food and broken at the bindings.
Things started to return to normal when I decided that Sheila, like my mother, would live on through her famous recipes and realized how fortunate we were to have her legacy. Then I learned that Conde Nast was folding Gourmet Magazine. How could they? Gourmet was another staple in my life and I had no idea it was expendable. A subscriber since I worked for the company in 1986, I thought that there were enough die-hards out there like me to ensure the magazine’s survival. But I guess I was wrong. All of this century’s foodies must be busy blogging, working at food coops or growing their own.
Just this past weekend I made a savory spinach pesto lasagna and sautéed leeks from the Gourmet archive. I do hope the company maintains their enormous compendium of recipes online at Epicurious.com, because without them there would be little reason to attempt a meal in the kitchen. We just might have to join our neighbors who all seem to order in or eat out. It’s as simple as that … too many blows for a cook in just a few short weeks.
Shiraz in Elmsford
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We heard the buzz about Shiraz, a relatively new Middle-Eastern restaurant on Route 119 in Elmsford, and decided to give it a try. We were pleased when they accomodated us with a table for eight at eight on a busy Friday night. The restaurant is spacious, open, airy, and well-lit with tile floors, and brick walls. On the way in we noticed that next door is a Middle Eastern grocery store with the same name and from the window it looks like they carry a wealth of interesting grains, spices and ingredients for a Middle Eastern feast. We made a mental note to go back there soon and embarked on our dinner plans. With a name like Shiraz, we assumed the restaurant served wine, but once we were seated we found that they do not have a liquor license. I settled for a pomegranate juice and one of the men in our party offered to go across the street to buy a few bottles of wine.
For appetizers, the menu offered a mouth-watering list of dips such as hummus, roasted eggplant, and a yogurt and cucumber combination, all accompanied by crisp Persian bread. The salads included a Greek salad and an herb salad with mint, tarragon and radishes that was fresh and crunchy. Creamy feta cheese and black olives added flavor. A jar of a black spice called Sumac was on every table. Apparently sumac is tangy and aromatic and will enhance the flavor of any entree, so give it a try if you dare.
Though we over-ordered on the first course, it didn't prevent us from diving into our entrees. Shiraz features flavorful kabobs served with saffron rice and grilled tomatos. Kabob choices abound...we tried the lamb, and the Cornish hen and both were moist and delicious. The special that night was a whole broiled branzino - served with the head and tail of the fish. Though a few in the party were reluctant to deal with fileting the fish, they ordered it anyway and gave a good report. The braised lamb shank was also ample and flavorful.
For dessert there were trays of baklava that looked sweet and syrupy but unfortunately we were too full to try it.
The service was friendly, helpful and swift. The waiter was happy to offer suggestions on selections and eager to please.
If you're looking for a meal that incorporates the exotic without going very far, we suggest a visit to Shiraz. But remember to bring your own bottle.
Shiraz
Persian Restaurant
83 East Main Street
Elmsford
(914) 345-6111
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Parking on street and in back lot.
The Gran Caffe Opens
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The owners of Rustico have opened the Gran Caffe next door to their well-known restaurant on Central Avenue. The Caffe will serve the community breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Scarsdale10583.com stopped by to meet owners Anna and Nello who opened the Caffe three weeks ago and already appear to have a bustling business and happy clientele. The Caffe is a casual spot that has something for everyone. Open at 7 am, they serve an assortment of gourmet coffees and teas to accompany your bagel, muffin, scone or omelet. For lunch there’s a long list of sandwiches, wraps and Panino including the Caprese with fresh mozzarella, tomato, roasted peppers, parma prosciutto, basil and olive oil or the Modena which is mortadella, capicolla, soppresata, prosciutto, provolone, lettuce, tomato and oil and vinegar. The thin crust pizzas, soups, salads and selection of hot meals all looked fresh and delicious.
Pastries, sold by the piece, are supplied by the former pastry chef of the Gramercy Tavern and Sushi Samba, and for dessert there is also gelato and italian cookies.
The restaurant has ample seating and would be a nice venue to meet a friend for lunch or coffee, or to sit alone, sip your coffee and read the paper. At night they are open late to accommodate those who want to stop by for a glass of wine or dessert.
In addition, the shop is offering catering: supplying many of the dishes well known at Rustico, such as Lasagna Bolognese, Pasta Amatriciana, Fra Diavlo, Puttanesca, or Veal Marsala, Francese or Piccata; all in trays for up to 20 peopl.. Think about calling the Gran Caffe to cater your holiday get togethers.
Stop by and welcome the Gran Caffe to the neighborhood. Mention Scarsdale10583.com and receive 10% off your purchase.
Gran Caffe
Gourmet Deli by Rustico
Home of the Ultra Thin Crust Pizza
749 Central Avenue
Scarsdale, New York
914-574-5834
Open: Monday - Sunday, 7 am to Midnight
More Chat
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Good news for Scarsdale diners. The long awaited Chat American Grill plans to open on Christie Place at the end of September. The site is abuzz with construction and the red and black décor is sleek and stunning. In addition to the dining area, Chat American Grill has a large patio and will serve outside under heat lamps for as long as the weather allows. There is also a party room for private gatherings. Owners Mario Fava and Mauro Lusardi are experienced restauranteurs both in Westchester and Manhattan. Their first venture was Lusardis on Second Avenue and 78th Street in the city and they extended the business to Westchester where they own Lusardis and Chat 19 in Larchmont, and Moscato and now Chat American Grill on Christie Place. There is no basis to the rumors that Chat American Grill will replace Moscato.
The restaurant will serve brunch, lunch and dinner seven days a week and feature the same moderately-priced menu as Chat 19 in Larchmont. With ample parking available in the new Christie Place parking lot, Chat American Grill will be able to accommodate a crowd.
Thin Crust Pizza on Depot Place
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Delectable thin crust pizza is now available at All'Antica on Depot Place next to the train station in Scarsdale Village
Pizza by the slice, or in full and half-sizes are on the menu at All'Antica, Scarsdale newest pizzeria and restaurant. You'll find and impressive array of toppings; sausage, spinach, eggplant and portabello mushrooms are just a few. We've heard great reports about the Finocchia (with anise and sausage), Melanzana (eggplant and gorgonzola) and Pesto Pizzas. Want more? There's chicken and eggplant parmigiana and a range of entrees including pastas and salads. Eat in or take out, but definitely give it a try.
All'Antica
8 Depot Place
Scarsdale
914-472-4848
914-472-4899
allanticapizza.com
Monday-Friday 11am-10pm
Saturday 12pm - 10pm
