La Riserva in Larchmont: Old World Elegance with a Modern Touch

La Riserva opened its doors in 1977 and is still going strong. Recently, a major renovation has added sparkle to this delightful Larchmont landmark. A bright red awning graces the entrance. This cheerful red color adds a lovely glow to the dining room ceilings, as well. New dark wood floors, and modern lighting brighten the atmosphere. Brick archways connect the dining rooms and multi paned windows add charm. The walls are embellished with many interesting photographs of the Vivolo family roots in Accadia, near Puglia in Italy. Framed in gold leaf, they lend a sense of authenticity. Yes, the renovation is complete from the dining rooms, the bar area and even the bathrooms. The Vivolo family has the skill of keeping the traditional and adding fresh new touches to both the space and the menu. The dining rooms seat about 120 guests with an upstairs dining room accommodating about 60.

Owners Michael and Margaret Vivolo enlisted the help of the next generation, their son Dean Vivolo and his wife Odelya who worked on the renovation of La Riserva. Dean Vivolo is chef owner of Trattoria Vivolo in Harrison. The result is a busy, festive friendly dining spot that prides itself on using the freshest of ingredients to prepare the regional northern Italian dishes with their signature light sauces. Michael Vivolo was inspired by his mother who cooked for her seven children. It was here that he discovered his love of the culinary arts. He worked in many noted restaurants in Geneva and arrived in New York in 1971. Just a few years later he achieved his dream of opening La Riserva. Vivolo said, " A restauranteur needs to love what he does, be kind and good and feed his guests well" As I dined at La Riserva, I couldn't help but note that everyone who arrived received a personal welcome from their host. Clearly they have many return customers. With their son Dean helping to keep an eye on everything, this family business continues to please and thrive.

A basket of warm bread and breadsticks as well as crusty bruschetta topped with nicely seasoned chopped tomatoes whet our appetites. We chose our selections from the menu of dishes that have been successful through the years as well as several new additions. Imported burrata with long stemmed artichokes, oven dried tomatoes, mixed marinated olives and fresh basil was a tasty beginning. The creamy center of the burrata was a fine foil for the various textures of the vegetables surrounding it. The hearty portion warned me to limit my consumption and leave room for the courses to follow. Next came another newcomer to the menu. Capesante arrived on a rectangle platter. The jumbo, fresh-from-the-sea-scallops boasted a veal demi glace and lemon white wine sauce. Fresh parsley and grilled lemon slices embellished these tender treasures from the sea. Of course, still on the menu are favorites of clams oreganata, spiedino alla romana and calamari fritti. Several classic soups and salads are offered such as minestrone, pasta fagioli, tricolore salad as well as the modern and very popular kale salad with cranberries, walnuts, green apples, grapefruit and gorgonzola cheese.

No Italian meal would be complete without a pasta course. At La Riserva both whole wheat and gluten free varieties are available. Through the years of dining at La Riserva, I especially loved the gnocchi di dolomiti. This is house made gnocchi with sausage and radicchio in a brandy cream sauce, as well as their lasagna, happily are still on the menu. This visit, I enjoyed homemade straw and hay, paglia e fieno cacao e pepe. The thin delicate ribbons of house made pasta, both green and white, were dressed with cracked coarse black peppercorns and parmigiano and pecorino cheeses. This very rich dish truly awakened my taste buds. It was excellent in its simplicity. Future pastas may include penne con gamberoni with jumbo shrimp, grape tomatoes and zucchini or roasted pepper and ricotta ravioli with pesto sauce.

Entrees of meat, chicken and fish are varied. Once again the traditional and the new appear among your selections. Vitello Verbena with fontina cheese and asparagus, Pollo Caprino, grilled chicken with zucchini, tomato and goat cheese and Cornish hen broiled with rosemary, garlic and lemon juice are some of the modern options among the classics of veal parmigiana, veal Milanese and chicken piccata. Very popular these days is branzino. We savored this wild sea bass with lemon, herbs, capers, and extra virgin olive oil. This presentation suited the expression, "You eat with your eyes first." The vibrant colors of the accompanying potato croquette, asparagus and carrots were indeed, eye candy and quite delicious. If you like your fish served whole, try the orata. This sea bream is roasted and stuffed with lemon, garlic and fresh herbs the flavors of which permeate the fish. Classic zuppa di pesce, wild sole francese and salmon romana with artichokes and olives as well as shrimp and scallops with charred tomatoes round out the fish selections.

To accompany your meal there is a nice selection of regional Italian and domestic wines. Classic desserts of linzer tarts, tiramisu, carrot cake and tartufo can complete your meal. We enjoyed light homemade cheesecake with fresh berries and freshly whipped cream.

Lunch and weekend brunch are a pleasant way to enjoy a meal at La Riserva, as well.

A meal at La Riserva is an experience in dining that encompasses warmth, a welcome feeling and the divine taste of both classic and modern Italian dishes.

La Riserva
2382 Boston Post Road
Larchmont, NY
(914) 834 5584

Recipe:

Insalata Arugula con Fennel (serves 2)

Ingredients:

1 bunch arugula
1 bulb fennel
8 dried figs
2 oranges, in segments
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbsps. aged balsamic vinegar

Directions:

Wash and dry the arugula and place in a bowl. Thinly slice the fennel, either with a knife or on a mandolin. Add the slices to the bowl. Cut each of the figs into quarters and add them to the bowl. Add the orange segments. Season the mixture with the salt and freshly ground pepper. Toss all ingredients lightly with the olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Divide between two salad plates and serve.

Contributor Judie Dweck has been writing about restaurants and food for many publications. She teaches creative cooking to children at Scarsdale elementary schools. Through the years, her articles have appeared in Jack and Jill Magazine, Spotlight, The Pleasure of Cooking and The Scarsdale Inquirer. She balances her restaurant tastings with daily ballet classes.